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When compiling a roll of London’s finest dining spots, one might expect familiar award-winning venues. However, tucked prominently among these gastronomic heavyweights is a unpretentious salonu situated in a far-flung part of north London.

An Unexpected Accolade

The small Turkish restaurant, focusing in the street food of Mersin, a city on Turkey’s south coast, has been declared the fourth best restaurant in the metropolis by a influential food magazine. This accolade has made the family completely astonished.

“I’m completely shocked,” says a owner’s son, pointing to his family’s relentless work that culminated in their small shop securing such a lofty ranking on a prestigious 99-strong list.

A Character of Modesty

This compact space, which used to be a basic cafe before its change into a popular destination, has kept much of its former character. It accommodates just over 20 people and, except for the vibrant live cooking performance, the interior remains largely unchanged. “It’s a compact and cozy spot,” comments the owner.

A Namesake Creation: Tantuni

Ultimately, it’s all about the food, and this eatery certainly succeeds. The restaurant’s signature dish, tantuni, is a simple delight. Choice of meat—whether lamb or chicken—is prepared via steaming to maintain a moist, juicy consistency.

The meat is then thrown into a large pan with spices and oil, which are mixed in bit by bit. Once the meaty mixture starts to simmer, freshly made lavaş—a pliable bread—is laid on top to absorb all the aromas. Thinly sliced onions and a sprinkling of parsley are placed before the savoury meat is wrapped securely inside.

The wrap is often consumed with a drop of lemon or some tangy accompaniments. The outcome is a strong burst of taste, with soft hints of sumac, sharp onions and red, paprika-infused oil pulling it all in harmony.

Other Than the Basic Tantuni

Patrons can also try yoğurtlu tantuni, where the meat-filled lavaş is sliced and finished with yogurt, tomato sauce and cooked, nutty browned butter. The respected food critic described this dish “a part of London’s few flawless, impeccable dishes”.

For sweets, the restaurant’s künefe goes down a delight. It is doused in a more modest amount of syrup than found elsewhere, giving it a more intense, toastier and more balanced profile.

Rising Above the Titans

Remarkably, this modest spot has ranked above several celebrated three-Michelin-starred venues. It finds itself just behind the peak of the list, just after other esteemed dining destinations.

While two people could readily leave the restaurant stuffed for under £25, similar tasting menus at high-end establishments can cost significantly more than that figure.

A Creed of Heart

The restaurant is also one of several Turkish restaurants listed and is situated well beyond the city’s central zones. “It is not concerning luxury. London is an expensive city. It is belief that in an expensive place you’re going to have the top service and top food but I don’t believe in that,” states the owner.

“In my view what is paramount is warmth, kindness and somewhere you can be yourself and be calm.”

This sentiment is shared by the list’s curator, who remarked that if he were in a role of power, he would “require to have every chef in London come to this restaurant as a finishing school, to teach them the traps of excess, and to reveal what is attainable if you do just one – or three – things to their absolute best”.

The Story of Dedication

In contrast to most chefs running kitchens in the list’s top ten, the head chef behind the food didn’t work at fancy establishments. “I am really proud of our shop and our mum,” adds her son.

A lot of restaurants take years to establish themselves, but this one first opened its doors seven years ago. Its popularity is due to tireless, seven-day weeks of work.

“My mum used to be extremely tired. She would go shopping in the morning and make the food in the afternoon. Each item is prepared manually; she would handle all of this. She is a single mother and she balanced a social life but her friends would support her to support her. She had children and a house to manage as well. Each of these duties made her into what she is now: a exceptional person,” he reflects.

A Achievement for the Culture

The restaurant’s success is likely to have meaning beyond its own walls. “I think numerous people would be happy, as I am, because the Turkish community is a significant part of London,” concludes the owner, pointing out the greater importance of this culinary honour.